A seven hour layover is a gift. In Munich, Franz Josef Strauss Airport lies forty-five minutes by train from the city center. But for ten euro, you can buy a ticket valid for all lines, all day, to and from the airport and throughout the city.
My first stop, after talking to a few locals on the train, was Marienplatz, the old heart of the city.
Just after ten a.m. i stepped into a brew haus to sample local Bavarian beverages. Sunday morning, but the place was already busy, especially the sidewalk terrace. Sipping Unser Aventinus ("deep and complex, for relaxing moments by the fire; alcohol 8.2%) and nibbling a pretzel, i ordered the Munich specialty, white veal sausages. But if there's one reason to visit this place above all others, i decided, it's the mustard.
While i ate, i noticed a fellow wearing lederhausen and carrying a big soft case. Another arrived, and soon four musicians were seated around a nearby table drinking. Stick around, the accordionist said. In fifteen minutes we start to play.