The secret to physical comfort is loose-fitting clothing. In Erbil, men can be seen in traditional Arab dress, one-piece white cotton garments - called "thoub" - that look and feel like a dress shirt, but extend to the ankles. Kurds wear traditional pants, a style we'd call "parachute pants". (The other thing i've seen a lot of here in Iraq are bell-bottoms, including bell-bottom dress pants.) I find that going "commando" dramatically reduces the sweat factor.
Indoors can be just as oppressive as the open sun. Andrew has two low-tech units, a technology i've never seen before. He calls it the "poor man's air conditioner" (the units sell for about $50, while air conditioners cost $600, not to mention overwhelming the meager electricity supply). They operate a bit like a humidifier, relying on the energy lost during evaporation to remove heat from the air - simply water dripping on hay, a large surface area for evaporation - and then blowing this cooled air into the room.
Aside from the funky wet-hay smell, it works quite well - as long as there's water. There is not always water in Suly. Public water runs for about two hours most days, filling individual tanks that you'd run off during the day. But today, the water was never turned on. Brushing teeth, washing dishes, flushing an eastern-style toilet…hmm. There are no "austerity measures" to implement here, says my host. In Kurdistan, millenial living is something people do on a daily basis.