Down the four flights from Sebastian's flat, U2's 'Beautiful Day' filled my ears. And a beautiful day it was. I wandered the back streets until i found Tophane, a district famous for Nargile (aka hookah) cafes. Hanging a left at Istanbul Modern, i began walking north along the Bosphorus. In Beşiktas, the shore view is obscured by Dolmabahçe Palace, late home of the Ottoman sultans, a landmark which reflects growing European influence in the 19th century. Across the street, Beşiktas İnönü Stadyumu stands - there's a game tonight, and when i return after dark the sidewalk will be thronged with fans in black and white.